Al Akhbar, (2-5-2006)

India, the charm of the east and the country of contradictions

By: Iman Anwar

It is hard for the visitor of India to determine one aspect or one feature that gives India its uniqueness and charm over ages. India has a civilization that have extended over 5,000 years. It is a country of spiritual legacy, great wealth, distinguished geographic location and established culture. All these elements together grant India its exclusive charm and make it uniquely attractive.

India is a special case and an unusual mix of contradictions coexisting in a contemporary world. In India, we feel the charm of the east in the ancient times and we see rich legacy and multiple beliefs, creeds and religions: Hinduism, Sikhism, Islam, Christianity, Buddhism, and Judaism. Indians speak 18 languages and 4,000 dialects.

New Delhi

As I got out of the airport in New Delhi, I was received by the guide’s wide smile. He accompanied me in a car to the Hotel. There was a very special smell which I felt very strongly. Is it the smell of grass, the smell of orange flowers piled up on pavements where they are sold, the smell of the morning mixed with that of trees and warmth of the summer sun, or the smell of something else? I did not know.

I was busy making appointments and having meetings, but I have never forgotten that smell. Over time, I stopped to ask about the source of this smell. Yet, its influence on me remained. I felt it in the wide streets, narrow alleys, modern high buildings, poor huts, monkeys bouncing in the streets here and there and cows roaming the city. If a cow crosses the street, the traffic stops and nobody would drive it away. Cows and monkeys are holy animals in India for one day they helped a god in his migration, provided him with food and led him to the way, the Indians say. Therefore, these animals spread along the roadside and walk side by side with people. You can see large numbers of people standing but doing nothing, which reflects India’s huge population of 1,100,000,000.

Autorickshaw

Autorickshaws are spread on the streets. These are 3-wheelers cheaper than taxis. An autorickshaw has enough space for two persons at the back with the driver sitting in the front in a narrow place. Luxurious cars of such models as Rolls-Royce, Mercedes, and Lincoln roam the streets as well. As a legacy left from the British occupation, traffic and steering-wheels are on the right side. All people I saw around seemed to be good-natured. I was touched by the little children who were begging in the streets and the small tents spread in the narrow streets where poor people live. More than 40% of the Indian people still live under the poverty line. There is a big contradiction here: poor areas are immediately next to wide paved streets, the diplomatic quarter, state establishments, high trees and European-style towers where rich people live. Women wear the beautiful Indian sari, the women’s uniform even in places of work, although the European fashion invaded the Indian markets. The Indian gold is reputed. Women wear golden ornaments like earrings and anklets. The guide told me that during the two-month marriage season, India witnesses more than 400 marriages daily, which raises world gold prices!

Contradictions

In India, negotiation is part of the buying process. So, you always make long negotiations before you come to a suitable price and buy what you want. The profit has no ceiling. What is priced at $100, you can buy for only $5 after negotiation.

India is like a big shop with contradictions side by side on shelves: extravagant wealth and abject poverty; legendary palaces and canvas tents; educated and technologically-literate people and illiterates ignorant of what is going on around them; laboratories and factories for making computers, cars, weapons and nuclear weapons and primitive tools still used by millions of people.

Taj Mahal

The car took 4 hours to travel from New Delhi to the city of Agra where Taj Mahal, one of the world’s seven wonders, exists. Although the distances between the two cities are only 190 km, the trip takes such a long time due to the bumpy road and traffic jams. The traffic was heaviest at the entrance of Agra which is inhabited by Muslims. That day coincided with celebrations of Sheikh Ali, a Muslim religious symbol. As I entered the magnificent Taj Mahal, I felt the solemnity of the place and was amazed by it. This palace was built by Mogul Emperor Shah Jahan as a tomb to his beloved wife Mumtaz Mahal in the 17^th century. By building it, Jahan wanted to prove his deep love for his late wife. He built the palace with white marble decorated with precious stones that were organized in floral patterns. The façades domes and four minarets were decorated with brilliant diamonds and gems. Construction of the Taj Mahal took 22 years. Qur'anic verses were inscribed on the walls and façade of the palace.

Jaipur elephants

The journey program did not include a visit to the state of Rajasthan. But it was added when I suggested it during my meeting with Mr. Navtej Sarna, spokesman for the Foreign Ministry, Indian government on the second day of may visit to India. He welcomed the idea. Without visiting Jaipur, I would not have felt the real charm of the east. Jaipur holds palaces and temples of the Mogul dynasty and the jail in which Emperor Shah Jahan spent his last years. Jahan was imprisoned upon an order from one of his children as he squandered a great wealth to spend on his own pleasures. Jaipur is called the pink city since it is surrounded by pink walls set up for protection.

Elephants are used in Jaipur for moving people up the hill where palaces are built. This reminded me of the European tourists who come to Egypt and ride camels near the pyramids. It was an adventure for me to ride an elephant. My feelings were a mix of fear and happiness. I made a tour on foot in the old marketplace along a long street which goes through the city. Strange Indian spices, oils, clothes, ornaments and linens are sold in this market. My guide said to me that women have power and occupy high posts in Jaipur as the state’s governor, parliament president and chief minister are women.

Mumbai

I took the plane to travel from Jaipur to Mumbai. During the trip which lasted one hour and a quarter, I was thinking of Mumbai as the world of colours.

Mumbai is a peerless city all over the world. You feel in Mumbai as if you were in New York, Shanghai, Paris or a city that is full of life and crowded. Mumbai is the commercial and financial capital of India. In Mumbai you see people of various nationalities. Everyone is looking for a deal to make or a business to do. You do not see lazy people wasting their time in daydreams. Urged by the dreams of making fortunes or becoming famous, everyone is busy doing big or small works. There exists the city of film production where the largest and most wonderful Indian films are made. There is also beautiful green gardens, memorial constructions, British-style buildings, museums, temples and charming panoramic views. A long wide avenue extends along the city with many squares and side-roads. This explains the ever-existing jam as if it was the rush hour. To be on time in any appointment less than 12 km away, we had to get out of the hotel at least two hours earlier.

Elephanta Island

In Mumbai I was keen to visit the city gate near the Arab Sea. The gate resembles the Arc de Triomphe in Paris. Then, we moved to Elephanta Island in a small ferry full of tourists of different nationalities. The trip took one hour. The Island is the oldest area in India with more than 1000 caves. To reach these caves, we had to climb up 120 steps on the mountain. Along the path there were sellers of ornaments, statues and precious stones.

Indian Food

I was fond of the Indian dishes having pepper, ginger, curry, pickles, unusually coloured sauce and the different kinds of bread made with butter, cumin and cumin black. Consequently, I got a severe stomach-ache on the last day of the trip. Thank God, it did not last for a long time. It stopped before I began my travel back to Egypt.

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